This classic baby booties crochet pattern will become your favorite go-to crochet Mary Janes for baby! This pattern works up fast and the pop of color makes them a fun project to make. They are perfect for your next baby shower! Pattern PDF includes sizing from newborn to toddler.
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I think I am a fan of classics. These crochet mary janes are definitely classic.  When I set out to design these, I knew I wanted something cute and quick. These crochet baby booties fit the bill. Not only will you love everyone’s “oohs ” and “ahhhs” over how cute they are, you will love that you can crochet a pair in under an hour. Plus, the little dot gives just the right amount of contrast to make these little crochet baby shoes extra adorable.

green crochet Mary Janes baby booties

 You can either make the button functional or decorative, it’s your choice! Either way, be sure to seal the threads with super glue or clear nail polish so there is no risk of the button coming off.

And, due to a Youtube commenter, I also made these crochet baby booties with a little more color pop! Read directions on how to make the bottom sole a different color.

pink and gray Mary Janes shoes for baby free crochet pattern
free crochet pattern Mary Janes booties for baby


Please remember: You are free to use this little mary janes free crochet pattern to make and sell your own crochet baby booties, but do not republish or distribute this pattern in any way. DO NOT use my photos in your listings. Please do share my blog links! It’s a quick and FREE way of supporting Whistle and Ivy and more free crochet patterns in the future.

What you need:

Abbreviations: (American Terms) 

St – Stitch
Ch – Chain
Sc – Single crochet
Dc – Double Crochet
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Sc decrease – Sc2tog
hdc decrease – Hdc2og
Dc decrease – Dc2tog
Sl st – Slip Stitch

Gauge: 9 dcs – 2”

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The ad-free PDF pattern for these darling crochet Mary Janes booties Pattern is also available in my shops! The PDF includes sizes from Newborn to Toddler 8/9

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Make 2 (Worked in the round)

Ch 11.
1. Work 3 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 4 chs, hdc in next ch, dc in next 3 chs, 7 dc in last ch.
Working across opposite side :
Dc in next 3 chs, hdc in next ch, sc in next 4 chs.
Place marker and move up each round. (26 sts)

2. Work 2 sc in next 3 sts.  Sc in next 9 sts. Work 2 sc in next 5 sts. Sc in next 9 sts. ( 34 sts)

3.*Sc in next st. Work 2 sc in next st* work 3 times. Sc in next 9 sts.  *Sc in next st. Work 2 sc in next st* work 5 times. Sc in next 9 sts. (42 sts)

4. Sc in next 41 sts. Hdc in last st. (42 sts)

5. Dc in next 10 sts.  Hdc in next st. Sc in next 31 sts.(42 sts)

6. Sc2tog. Sc in next 6 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in next 9 sts. Sc2tog 7 times. Sc in next 9 sts. (33 sts)

7. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 4 sts. Hdc2tog. Sc in next 9 sts. Dc2tog 4 times.  Sc in next 8 sts. (27 sts)

Right: Sl st 12. Ch 9. Sc into 5th ch from hook.  Sc in next 4 sts. sl st into next st on the shoe. Sl st in next 14 sts. (27 sts {not including the sc and ch sts of the strap})
Tie off.

Left shoe: Sl st in next 23 sts. Ch 9. Sc into 5th ch from hook.  Sc in next 4 sts. Sl st into next st on the shoe. Sl st in next 3 sts. [27 sts (not including the sc and ch sts of the strap)] Tie off. Weave in ends.

To make the shoes two-toned, work steps 1 -3, but end round 3 by moving up your stitch marker, sl st into next st and tie off.

4. Join Color B at the stitch marker. Work through BLO. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc in next 41 sts. (42 sts) Join with a sl st.
5. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Hdc in next st. Dc in next 7 sts. Hdc in next st. Sc in next 32 sts.(42 sts) Join with a sl st.
6. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc2tog. Sc in next 5 sts. Sc2tog. Sc in next 10 sts. Sc2tog 7 times. Sc in next 8 sts. (33 sts) Join with a sl st.
7. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Hdc2tog. Hdc in next 3 sts. Hdc2tog. Sc in next 9 sts. Dc2tog 4 times. Sc in next 8 sts. (27 sts) Join with a sl st.

Right Shoe: 
Sl st in next 12 sts. Ch 9. Sc into 5thch from hook. Sc in next 4 sts. sl st into next st on the shoe. Sl st in next 14 sts. [27 sts (not including the sc and ch sts of the strap)] Tie off.

Left shoe:

Sl st in next 23 sts. Ch 9. Sc into 5thch from hook. Sc in next 4 sts. Sl st into next st on the shoe. Sl st in next 3 sts. [27 sts (not including the sc and ch sts of the strap)] Tie off.

Dot: Start with adjustable ring or 3-ch loop.
Work 8 sc into the ring. Pull your ring tight.
Join with a sl st and tie off.


Attach a small button on the opposite side of your strap with a needle and thread. Make sure it is VERY secure, and seal the button’s threads with a dot of super glue or finger nail polish over where they cross on the button. 
Attach the dot by hand sewing, or attaching with hot glue. If you are using hot glue, but sure your are gluing to the very edge of the dot, as the edges of the small circle may curl up over time.

These crochet Mary Jane shoes are perfect for almost any occasion! Enjoy!


cute crochet Mary Janes for baby free crochet pattern

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  1. I’m so confused l. You say “place stitch marker and move up”. Can you clarify this ? I’m used to joining with ss in the rounds and placing marker in 1st stitch. Also, I am adding chain 1 each round before next round. Help please. Thx. Donna

    1. The sole is worked in a continuous round, not in joined rows, so you will place a stitch marker to help you know where the end/beginning of the round is. If you are altering the pattern by working in joined rows, you don’t need the stitch marker.

  2. Hello I love ur patter thank u for sharing. Could u please help me.. I’m on 3.
    When u say work 2 sc in next st. Work 3 times… what do u mean?
    Do I do 2sc in the next 3 sts.??
    Then when it says work 5 times that’s just so in the next 5??

  3. I absolutely love these tiny Mary Jane shoes! So far the easiest instructions I have tried. Thank you for publishing this pattern. Love It!!!!

        1. It’s one pattern, it includes newborn to Toddler size 9. The links to my shops are right above where the 3-6 month pattern begins.

  4. When I do round 1, I’m left with two unworked chains at the end. Am I supposed to skip two chains before I start working the opposite side?

      1. I’m ok for the first side, that works out fine, it has 10 chs worked from the 2nd of 11 chs. But the second side only has 8 ch worked (3 DC, 1 HDC and 4 sc) which leaves 2 chs unworked.

        1. You should have 8 on each side, 3 in the first chain and 7 in the last chain. (The 7 bring you around to the other side, you won’t be working in it again) The first 3 take up the first chain, following 8 stitches make up 8, then you work 7 in the last ch, so all 10 have been work in. Then, you work 8 up the other side. You won’t work again in the last st that has 7. You also won’t work again in the same ch as the first 3, as you worked 3 in it. You will start again in the first st for round 2, as you are working in a spiral. Make sure you are paying attention to the stitch row counts to help you remain on track.

          1. I’m afraid I don’t understand. Do you have a video tutorial or pictures of how each round is supposed to look?

          2. I’ve got it now I figured out where I was going wrong: I work into chains differently than you do. All fixed and I have two cute little booties to gift. Thank you!

  5. I am so glad to have found your pattern for the crocheted Mary Jane booties. They are exactly what I wanted to make for the newest little member of our family, Dorothy Jane. Thank you for sharing this pattern, and many more.

  6. For the different colored soles.. Are you sc in the same stitch that you slip stiched in or are you chaining one and turning? When I sc in the same stitch I slipped stitched in after chaining one I end up with extra stitches:( pls help

      1. So on step 3 before step 4 first of all, should the stitch marker be where you slip stitched and tied off or the stitch before that? Second, I keep ending up with an extra two stitches after completing round 5.. I figure it’s from putting the Sc in the same stitch as the chain one which is the stitch u slip stitch in correct? Am I not supposed to be counting the previous slip stitch and chain one in the next row?
        Sorry for the confusion, I did the one toned ones and they came out lovely

        1. The stitch marker will stay where it you had it in previous row, in the last stitch of the row. For this pattern, you will work the first st in the same st as the chain, therefore you will NOT count the sl st nor the chain 1. Be sure to join the row in the first SC not the chain. Does that make sense?

          1. Yes makes sense. Couple more questions sorry, are you supposed to work in blo just for the joining of the new color or the whole 4th step? And is the slip stitch at the end of row three supposed to be the 42nd st? Or the stitch after that and then u add the color to the 42? Sorry and thank you for ur time and help

          2. The back loops only gives the sole a bit more defined look (you can see the line when you look at the photos) so you will do the whole row. The slip st doesn’t count as a stitch, you are joining the new yarn at the stitch marker. Did you use a stitch marker through the first 3 rows?

  7. At the end of rows 1 through 7 I know alot of people join end rounds with a slip stitch do you not join the end of rounds 1 through 7 with a slip stitch I didn’t see anything in the pattern about it so just wanted to make sure???

  8. Hello! What a beautiful pattern! I was wondering about Row 7. On the video you say that Row 7 is hdc followed by dc. In the written pattern for 0-3 months Row 7 is worked sc and then dc. I didn’t know if it is different because of a smaller size or maybe a typo. Should I follow the written tutorial of sc followed by dc or the video tutorial of hdc followed by dc? Thank you!

    1. Hello! I have updated the written pattern to my liking but haven’t updated the video yet. The video will work out and the written pattern will work out, but you need to pick one of them to follow.